Tuesday, April 27, 2010

The Wild and Wonderful St. Johns River

Departing the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, we turned southwest onto the St. Johns River, the longest river in Florida and the longest river in the United States that flows from South to North. It is considered to be one of the “laziest” rivers in the world because from its source south of Melbourne to its mouth in Mayport the total drop is less than 30 feet, about one inch per mile. Our journey “upriver” began at Jacksonville, a vibrant waterfront city. Jacksonville Landing provides a dock in the center of town from which we could explore all that this beautiful city had to offer. The Maritime Museum was a particular highlight. Leaving the city behind, the river widened as it meandered through beautiful woodlands and past lovely homes. As we turned toward Six Mile Creek, it seemed we were traveling back to a simpler time. The Outback Crab Shack on Six Mile Creek boasts a quarter mile dock. This family owned and operated restaurant is renowned in this area. We sampled their fare and were not disappointed! We visited Palatka, a town once known as the “gem city on the St. Johns”; it was a winter recreational destination for President Grover Cleveland and other influential people in the late 1800s. Commerce flourished with the excellent rail service and the abundant steamships of the period. This ended with the “Great Freeze of 1895” which decimated the citrus industry. Today Palatka is a pretty waterfront town with beautiful murals on many of the restored buildings. Antique car enthusiasts gather downtown on Friday evenings. Past Palatka the river narrows, winding through unspoiled woodlands. We have found absolutely gorgeous anchorages where we were truly alone in the wilderness. Visiting Hontoon Island State Park we were able to walk the hiking trails to the Indian Shell Mound, spotting several Armadillos along the way. Blue Springs State Park, one of the most beautiful spots along this river is part of the Florida Aquifer. 101 Million gallons of fresh water flows from the spring daily. The water is a continual 72 degrees providing a winter migration destination for Manatees. The Manatees have left for the season but many species of fish and turtles can be spotted in the crystal clear water. Getting into Silver Glen Springs, another of Florida’s natural springs was quite a challenge as the approach was very shallow. Once in, however, we found we were not alone. The St. Johns River is truly Florida at its best. We have seen numerous Eagles; one swooped down in front us, snatching a fish right out of the water!In addition, we have seen many wading birds, an Owl and numerous Osprey.It has been fun to spot alligators laying on a log or swimming stealthily through the water. The St. Johns River has truly been a highlight of our trip along America’s Great Loop. As we prepared to depart this beautiful river the winds increased dramatically. We changed our plans and proceeded up the Ortega River where we went through the draw of what our guide books say is the most opened bridge in the state of Florida. We are currently in a beautiful, sheltered marina, Ortega Landing Marina where we will remain until the winds subside. We plan to continue our trip tomorrow, back onto the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway and then on to Georgia.