Tuesday, April 27, 2010

The Wild and Wonderful St. Johns River

Departing the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, we turned southwest onto the St. Johns River, the longest river in Florida and the longest river in the United States that flows from South to North. It is considered to be one of the “laziest” rivers in the world because from its source south of Melbourne to its mouth in Mayport the total drop is less than 30 feet, about one inch per mile. Our journey “upriver” began at Jacksonville, a vibrant waterfront city. Jacksonville Landing provides a dock in the center of town from which we could explore all that this beautiful city had to offer. The Maritime Museum was a particular highlight. Leaving the city behind, the river widened as it meandered through beautiful woodlands and past lovely homes. As we turned toward Six Mile Creek, it seemed we were traveling back to a simpler time. The Outback Crab Shack on Six Mile Creek boasts a quarter mile dock. This family owned and operated restaurant is renowned in this area. We sampled their fare and were not disappointed! We visited Palatka, a town once known as the “gem city on the St. Johns”; it was a winter recreational destination for President Grover Cleveland and other influential people in the late 1800s. Commerce flourished with the excellent rail service and the abundant steamships of the period. This ended with the “Great Freeze of 1895” which decimated the citrus industry. Today Palatka is a pretty waterfront town with beautiful murals on many of the restored buildings. Antique car enthusiasts gather downtown on Friday evenings. Past Palatka the river narrows, winding through unspoiled woodlands. We have found absolutely gorgeous anchorages where we were truly alone in the wilderness. Visiting Hontoon Island State Park we were able to walk the hiking trails to the Indian Shell Mound, spotting several Armadillos along the way. Blue Springs State Park, one of the most beautiful spots along this river is part of the Florida Aquifer. 101 Million gallons of fresh water flows from the spring daily. The water is a continual 72 degrees providing a winter migration destination for Manatees. The Manatees have left for the season but many species of fish and turtles can be spotted in the crystal clear water. Getting into Silver Glen Springs, another of Florida’s natural springs was quite a challenge as the approach was very shallow. Once in, however, we found we were not alone. The St. Johns River is truly Florida at its best. We have seen numerous Eagles; one swooped down in front us, snatching a fish right out of the water!In addition, we have seen many wading birds, an Owl and numerous Osprey.It has been fun to spot alligators laying on a log or swimming stealthily through the water. The St. Johns River has truly been a highlight of our trip along America’s Great Loop. As we prepared to depart this beautiful river the winds increased dramatically. We changed our plans and proceeded up the Ortega River where we went through the draw of what our guide books say is the most opened bridge in the state of Florida. We are currently in a beautiful, sheltered marina, Ortega Landing Marina where we will remain until the winds subside. We plan to continue our trip tomorrow, back onto the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway and then on to Georgia.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Florida’s East Coast

The trip north along Florida’s East Coast was a varied experience ranging from the glitz and glamour of Miami to the wild and natural “first coast”. We departed No Name Harbor (Key Biscayne) under a cloudy, rainy sky. The tall buildings of Miami came into view as we turned out of the harbor. With the Miami skyline looming ahead and the sun breaking through the clouds, the day promised to be filled with interesting sights. This section of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, commonly called the “Gold Coast”, is full of beautiful homes and waterway communities. Nearing our destination for the day, Hollywood, we stepped back to the days of “old Florida” with modest homes tucked along the waterway. Its Greek heritage was evident in the many wonderful waterside restaurants. On to Fort Lauderdale with sumptuous homes along canals on both sides of the Intracoastal, each with equally huge boats docked outside. We were treated to Fort Lauderdale during Spring Break with its beautiful beach! Continuing on through the Palm Beaches we soon came to Jupiter Inlet with its red brick lighthouse. This marked the beginning of the “Treasure Coast”, named for the fleet of eleven Spanish ships loaded with gold and silver which departed from Havana on June 24, 1715. Encountering a hurricane, the ships were lost. Some of the cargo can still be found along the beaches today. Anchoring in Manatee Pocket, the name conjures a cove of unspoiled beauty. Our first sight was a floating hot dog stand at the mouth of the cove! Reality was a very pleasant anchorage in a cove with homes and marinas along the entire shoreline. Heading north once again the terrain became more natural with beautiful “wild islands” along the waterway. Passing Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge, the nation’s first, designated by Theodore Roosevelt, we soon entered the “Space Coast”. We turned east entering the Canaveral Barge Canal on our way to Port Canaveral where we had an appointment with a crew from the Regal Boats plant to complete the warranty issues which had arisen with our new boat. They completed the work quickly and thoroughly, we were very pleased with the service we received from Regal. We had the opportunity to tour the Regal facility in Orlando, a very impressive operation! We were fortunate to see the launch of Space Shuttle Discovery at 6:21 AM on the 5th of April. An absolute thrill! We watched until the shuttle was out of sight (we were told it was over Africa by then) with only contrails remaining. It was incredible! We spotted the NASA ship returning with the recovered booster rocket as it cruised past our marina. Wildlife sightings have became more frequent with Egrets, Herons and Roseate Spoonbills on the rookery islands along the waterway. We have seen Manatees and an Alligator as well as Eagles and Wood Storks. Dolphin sightings are daily occurrences. Reaching St. Augustine, America’s oldest city, settled by the Spanish in 1565, we entered the “First Coast” so named because it was the first to be discovered by French and Spanish explorers a hundred years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. Much of this area is unspoiled, set aside in wildlife refuges. Our trip along the varied and beautiful Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway of Florida has been a fantastic experience. We are currently docked in Jacksonville, planning a side trip to explore the St. Johns River.