The North Channel

The North Channel is the body of water located to the west of the Georgian Bay, separated from Lake Huron by Manitoulin Island. It runs approximately one hundred miles in length by 20 miles across, running east to west. Our entry into this more remote region was through Killarney. The intended one night stop became three when the winds increased dramatically and the rain once again returned. Being tied securely to the dock at Killarney Mountain Lodge we were able to enjoy their facilities and explore the area around this small fishing village. We met some wonderful people there and enjoyed this delay in our itinerary. Departing Killarney we cruised through Covered Portage Cove a well known and beautiful spot and then proceeded to what is considered to be one of the few fjords in North America, Baie Fine (pronounced Bay Fin) with fabulous scenery. We cruised up the 10 mile passage to its far end to a gorgeous and very popular anchorage at the far end called, The Pool. We dropped our hook in the Pool with three other boats and enjoyed this magnificent spot. As this area is part of the Killarney Provincial Park, we hiked the trail leading to Topaz Lake, a pristine alpine lake with crystal clear water. Little Current was our next stop, the largest town on Manitoulin Island. Little Current is the recommended grocery stop in this area so we got out the bikes and rode up the hill to the market, the Butcher and the LCBO (the wine store in Canada). With our cupboards once again replenished we headed for the Benjamin Islands with their multitude of anchorages. We found a beautiful spot and dropped the hook. This area was a combination of the pink granite so prevalent in the Georgian Bay and the gray granite and white quartzite of the North Channel, making a beautiful setting along with the larger trees of the area. There were many coves to explore by dinghy and rocks to climb to get just the right view of this magnificent area. Our next day led us through places called Little Detroit, a narrow cut in the rock with such restricted visibility at each end that boats must radio their intention to pass through to alert other boaters in the area they could encounter traffic, and Whalesback Channel dotted with many small islets on our way to Long Point Cove, a very well protected cove which is incredibly beautiful. There were several boats tucked in there and all boaters congregated on the rocks at 5pm for an impromptu “happy hour”. It was fun to get to know the other boaters all of whom were there for the same reason, to enjoy this fabulous area. We were so well protected that when the wind picked up during the night we were unaware of it until we headed out in the morning. The weather forecast was for moderate breezes but not the winds we encountered as we crossed the open channel to Blind River. Happy to be once again securely tied to the dock we are tucked into this cove awaiting a water pump and better weather. We plan to leave here tomorrow, heading to Drummond Island where we will check back into the United States and head toward Mackinac Island arriving there on Sunday.

Byng Inlet to Killarney

Our Adventure has continued with a series of gorgeous anchorages including the Bustard Islands and the Bad River, each unique in its attributes. We found a secluded anchorage in the Bustards,

sheltered and beautiful,we spent a leisurely afternoon exploring by dinghy the many shallow coves in this island chain. In the evening, we again boarded the dinghy for a better view of the sunset. A perfectly peaceful place! The Bad River has a tricky entrance that, once inside, opens to a large anchorage at the base of the Devils Door Rapids. People with large outboard motors on small boats were able to run the rapids and explore the area beyond, part of the French River area. We were content to climb to the top of the hill and watch as these attempts were made. We watched a kayak and a canoe come down the rapids, wondering how they got up there. It would have been a steep climb! Our 6 horsepower motor wasn’t strong enough for this, we were satisfied to get as close as possible without loosing control and then enjoy the ride back out again. Further exploration of this area with its rounded pink granite rocks reminded us of vacations on Lake Powell with Leslie’s parents where we would explore down long, slot canyons as far as we could go. Fabulous times there and great memories!

Our departure from Bad River was delayed by strong winds which brought with them five to six foot seas. Our next stop required a 13 mile run in the open water; with those conditions it would have been quite uncomfortable. The wind and waves subsided the next day, we departed early to avoid the afternoon winds which were predicted. The sun peeked out as we departed but no sooner were we through the mouth of the river than the fog enveloped us. We had ¼ mile visibility most of the way to Beaverstone Bay where we again entered sheltered water.Just as we approached the inlet where visibility is critical, the fog lifted. Beaverstone Bay is another gorgeous area which leads to Collins Inlet with its steep, rocky walls. The trees seemed to grow taller there creating dense, lush forests. This trip through Collins Inlet was memorable for the stunning beauty of the area. As we approached Killarney, the gateway to the North Channel, the white quartzite mountains came into view. No stop in Killarney is complete without a meal at Herberts Fisheries for Fish and Chips. Serving daily in July and August from a converted school bus, lunch there was a treat! We will depart tomorrow to begin our exploration of the North Channel.

Parry Sound to Byng Inlet

Parry Sound, a town of 5,000 offered an excellent stop for groceries. The local grocery store, Sobey’s, offered a shuttle from the Big Sound Marina, a wonderful service. The van required service on the day we planned to shop, the store manager provided transportation himself! Another example of the warm hospitality we have experienced on this trip. A series of bike trails wound around town providing an opportunity to explore. We rode our bikes to the Parry Sound Lookout Tower where we climbed the 136 steps for a bird’s eye view of this gorgeous country. Continuing on our journey, we wound our way to Snug Harbor and Hopewell Bay, finding phenomenal anchorages at both locations. At Hopewell Bay, we tucked into a beautiful little bay; ours was the only boat there. We were welcomed by the Terns, diving for fish. The serenity of this location was incredible; the call of the Loons was the only sound that broke the quiet of the evening. We have seen stone statues on many of the islands, we are told these are Indian symbols of welcome, some are quite intricate. The route to Byng Inlet led through narrow channels with names like Shoal Narrows and Hangdog Channel, those who have traveled this route will surely remember them. This was a very challenging portion of the route, shallow with narrow twists and turns. Rocks were visible just below the surface on both sides of the channel, requiring turns occasionally as sharp as 160 degrees in less than the length of our boat. At times, the occasional Seagull sitting on a rock was the only indication we should avoid the area. This was a memorable run! We are currently at anchor in Byng Inlet, near the village of Britt. We are told that dinner at the Little Brit Inn is not to be missed; tonight we will do our own evaluation.

The Incredible Georgian Bay

On August 5^th we exited the lock at Port Severn, our 107^th of this trip, and entered Georgian Bay in the area known as the 30,000 Islands. These islands, carved out of Granite at the end of the last ice age, are scattered throughout the area, large and small, some the size of a boulder protruding through the surface of the water. Through the crystal clear water the rocky bottom is often visible as we wind our way through the channels. The landscape along the open water is very rugged, many islands only supporting dwarf, twisted trees. We have found some incredible anchorages where, sheltered from the winds, the trees are able to grow tall. The openings to some of these anchorages are narrow and twisting, the beauty and serenity once inside is the reward. We anchored in Frying Pan Harbor, part of the Beausoleil Provincial Park where we hiked to Fairy Lake.

Other gorgeous anchorages we have found were near 12 Mile Island and in Echo Bay, exploring by dinghy areas we wouldn’t dare take the boat. On the way, we stopped by the famous Henry’s Fish House accessible only by boats and seaplanes, known for the battered pickerel. We were advised not to miss the butter tarts as well! The Canadians we have met along the way have been wonderful, offering advice and “local knowledge” on excellent restaurants, marinas and on very special anchorages. Our trip has been enhanced by this information and by friendships we have developed along the way. We are currently in Parry Sound, offering Georgian Bay cruises and an opportunity for boaters to buy supplies before heading off to find another remote anchorage. Tomorrow we will continue our trip west, heading to Regatta Bay.

The Trent-Severn, a Retrospective

We entered the Trent-Severn Waterway on July 21st and have enjoyed this portion immensely. The Peterborough Lift Lock, the worlds highest hydraulic lift lock and the Kirkfield Lift Lock, the worlds second highest hydraulic lift lock were certainly highlights. Of special interest to us was that we transited up the 65 feet at Peterborough and down 49 feet at Kirkfield. We were fortunate to be in front on both occasions, as we entered Kirkfield it was a bit eerie to see nothing but space in front of us! Along the way we enjoyed many small towns like Bobcaygeon and Cambellford and locks in rural forest settings like Youngs Point where we found a wonderful restaurant, The Old Bridge Inn, recommended by the lock tenders. We enjoyed the flight locks at Ranney Falls and Healey Falls and the highest conventional lock on the system, Swifts Rapids with its 47 foot drop was quite an experience as well. Once the water begins to discharge from this lock, they cannot stop it so it is important to tend ones lines attentively. We wound our way through granite walls and fjord like coves, across Lake Simcoe, the largest lake on the system which, it is said, can kick up 14 foot waves in a storm. We crossed it on a very calm day finding it was flat as glass! Gorgeous Balsam Lake with its heavily forested shores, the highest point on the system is absolutely stunning. The highlight had to be the Big Chute Marine Railway. In order to keep the Lamprey away from the fisheries on Lake Simcoe, the decision was made not to cut through the land with a conventional lock in the area of the big chute rapids. The original marine railway was built at this location in 1917 as a method of opening this waterway to navigation and enable trade and shipment of supplies during wartime. The marine railway was rebuilt and enlarged between 1976 and 1978. This large, specially designed railroad carriage, 80 feet in length and 36 feet high, is lowered into the water where a boat is driven forward over the opening, the operators direct the boat into position and straps are raised to hold the boat into place. On the day we arrived, there had been a mechanical repair needed and there were a number of boats waiting. The lock operators knew who had arrived first and took boats based on priority and the way they would fit onto the “rail car”. It was a very interesting operation, they were very professional and the boaters waiting were very patient. When our turn came, we were fortunate to be called in to the first position. Once the boats were all in place and secure, the car was lifted out of the water by means of a large cable and pulley system and transported up over the hill and down the other side where the car again entered the water and the boats were able to float once again, each one continuing on its way. The boats remain essentially level due to a unique double track system which allows the front wheels and the back wheels to travel at different heights. The maximum lift over the ground is 58 feet, the distance traveled is 748 feet. What an incredible experience. We traveled through the last lock at Port Severn on Wednesday, August 5th. This lock was one of the original and smallest locks on the system, still operated by hand. We truly enjoyed our trip along the Trent-Severn Waterway, it was a bittersweet realization that this portion of the journey was behind us. We have the adventure of the Georgian Bay ahead.