A Circle Completed

On May 13, 2010 Harry and Leslie completed their Great Loop Cruise aboard their motor vessel “Somewhere”, crossing their wake at the entrance to St. James Marina near Southport, North Carolina. It was an amazing adventure! Our travels over nearly 13 months took us through 19 states and 2 Canadian Provinces; we transited 144 locks and covered 6,980 statute miles. We chose to add a few side trips; turning north on the Delaware River to visit Philadelphia, traveling up the Tennessee River to Chattanooga at the height of the fall colors and leaving the ICW in Florida to travel up the St. Johns River to Blue Springs State Park. Each of these side trips added to the enjoyment of our entire trip. Along the way we met so many wonderful people, some will remain friends for many years to come. We will always remember those who generously shared their favorite places and provided “local knowledge” which was invaluable on a trip of this nature. Their kindness will not be forgotten. It is on a trip like this that one can reflect on the true goodness of people. It was a privilege to experience the natural beauty of our great country and, of course, that of our neighbor to the north. As our trip drew to a close we spent more time reflecting on our adventure and the places we had been. A few of our favorite memories are leaving Staten Island and seeing the majesty of New York City ahead or crossing the expanse of Lake Michigan in the fog and seeing the Chicago skyline looming on the horizon. The interesting locks, especially the Big Chute Railway, the Peterborough Lift Lock and the Wilson Lock on the Tennessee River with its 93’ lift to name a few. Winding our way through the Chambly Canal or cruising the Mississippi River with the arch, the Gateway to the West, glistening in the sunlight.

We will always remember the beautiful Hudson River with West Point standing guard majestically

and the eight step locks which raised us 79 feet from the Ottawa River to the magical city of Ottawa and the fabulous adventures of the Rideau and Trent Severn Canals. Another highlight was the gorgeous Georgian Bay with the many rocks waiting to ground a boater who might stray ever so slightly out of the channel and whose stunning beauty and peaceful anchorages defy description. Thinking the best part of the trip was behind us only to be enchanted by Florida with the opportunity to swim with the Manatees and dive the Marine Reserves of John Pennecamp Coral Reef State Park and the unforgettable sight of the Space Shuttle Discovery hurtling into space. Finally, we will remember the more familiar but no less enjoyable stops of Charleston and Hilton Head. There are so many more! This was an adventure which we will savor for many years. Those who have said that it is not the destination that is important, it is the journey must have been thinking of America’s Great Loop. As we settle back into life at home with our memories of this “excellent adventure” and plan our next one, we are reminded that, as someone once said, life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but by the moments that take our breath away.

Nothing Could Be Finer…….

Crossing the Savannah River, we entered the Low Country of South Carolina; it is beautiful this time of year. Our first stop, Harbour Town at Hilton Head was as wonderful as we had remembered. The landmark Lighthouse led us into the basin. Having always visited during the winter months, we enjoyed the lush greenery and pretty flowers as we explored the many bike paths. Liberty Oak stood proudly overlooking the marina and a row of rocking chairs beckoned the weary shopper to stop and rest a bit or just enjoy the lovely view. All too soon it was time to continue our adventure with a stop in charming Beaufort, the second oldest town in South Carolina. With carefully preserved homes and wonderful restaurants, Beaufort is always a joy to visit. We toured the Civil War Museum which carefully illustrated the impact the war had on Beaufort and her residents. Continuing north along the ICW, Charleston was our next stop. The city seems more charming with each visit. The beautifully restored buildings, the lavish antebellum homes and cobblestone streets complete with the sound of horse drawn carriages all add to the ambiance. We toured a fascinating Confederate Museum and, of course, sampled some of the legendary “low country cuisine”.

Charleston was one more fabulous stop along this Great Loop Adventure. One wonders where we could go from here. The Waccamaw River would be waiting! This gorgeous river, winding through Cypress Forest with Osprey nests galore, each fully occupied this time of year.

We anchored in Prince Creek, our favorite spot along this section in the center of a National Wildlife Refuge. The only sounds were those of the many birds calling from within the forests. A very peaceful place! We are nearing the completion of our Great Loop adventure and find we continue to enjoy each stop along the way and, of course we have been reminiscing about some of our favorites. We have so many great memories! We will stop once more at Grand Dunes in Myrtle Beach before crossing the state line into North Carolina and returning home to savor the many memories of this “excellent adventure”.

"Georgia on My Mind"

Departing Florida we passed Fort Clinch State Park, one of the most well-preserved 19th century forts in the country, located on the northern tip of Amelia Island. Then it was on to Cumberland Island, Georgia’s largest and southernmost barrier island. Preserved as a National Seashore, Cumberland Island is spectacularly beautiful. Largely unspoiled by human development there are acres of maritime forests and miles of natural dunes and shoreline.

The ruins of the Thomas Carnegie mansion, Dungeness, remain as well as the restored ice house, now a fascinating museum detailing the history of this piece of Georgia coastline.

Mrs. Carnegie requested her beloved horses be allowed to roam free on the island after her death. The descendants of these horses can be seen there today. There was much more to see on this beautiful island, we hope to return to explore further. Stopping at Jekyll Island, the smallest of Georgia’s Sea Islands, we rode our bicycles around the beautifully restored “Millionaire’s Village”, the national historic district containing the homes of such notable families as the Rockefellers, the Morgans and the Vanderbilts. The Clubhouse, tastefully restored, is now the Jekyll Island Club Hotel. It was there that an influential group of men met secretly in 1908 and formed what would become a modern monetary fund for the United States, leading to the formation of the Federal Reserve System. Under state law 65% of the island must remain undeveloped. It is a beautiful spot! Departing Jekyll Island, we had planned our stops along the way. Navigating the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) in Georgia can be very challenging and requires careful planning. The ICW is essentially a series of winding rivers connected by straight cuts. The eight foot tides that much of the Georgia coastal area experiences create strong currents, resulting in shoaling in the rivers. Consequently, this section is very shallow at low tide. We arrived during a full moon stage exacerbating this situation. Our research and prior experience had indicated certain areas which we needed to cross at close to high tide, we planned accordingly. Having traveled through the most difficult areas we reached our intended anchorage but the weather had changed and was not conducive to a peaceful nights rest. “Plan B” was a marina off of the ICW, the approach had less water than the charts indicated and, sounding our way in, we determined it was too shallow and turned back. Flexibility is important on a trip like this. We continued on, through areas called “Hell Gate” and “Florida Passage” and past Moon River, yes the moon river made famous by the song of the same name. We ended the day at Isle of Hope Marina where the wind could blow and we were secure (plan D). We had covered 105 miles. We will go on to Hilton Head Island tomorrow.

The Wild and Wonderful St. Johns River

Departing the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, we turned southwest onto the St. Johns River, the longest river in Florida and the longest river in the United States that flows from South to North. It is considered to be one of the “laziest” rivers in the world because from its source south of Melbourne to its mouth in Mayport the total drop is less than 30 feet, about one inch per mile. Our journey “upriver” began at Jacksonville, a vibrant waterfront city. Jacksonville Landing provides a dock in the center of town from which we could explore all that this beautiful city had to offer. The Maritime Museum was a particular highlight. Leaving the city behind, the river widened as it meandered through beautiful woodlands and past lovely homes. As we turned toward Six Mile Creek, it seemed we were traveling back to a simpler time. The Outback Crab Shack on Six Mile Creek boasts a quarter mile dock. This family owned and operated restaurant is renowned in this area. We sampled their fare and were not disappointed! We visited Palatka, a town once known as the “gem city on the St. Johns”; it was a winter recreational destination for President Grover Cleveland and other influential people in the late 1800s. Commerce flourished with the excellent rail service and the abundant steamships of the period. This ended with the “Great Freeze of 1895” which decimated the citrus industry. Today Palatka is a pretty waterfront town with beautiful murals on many of the restored buildings. Antique car enthusiasts gather downtown on Friday evenings. Past Palatka the river narrows, winding through unspoiled woodlands. We have found absolutely gorgeous anchorages where we were truly alone in the wilderness. Visiting Hontoon Island State Park we were able to walk the hiking trails to the Indian Shell Mound, spotting several Armadillos along the way. Blue Springs State Park, one of the most beautiful spots along this river is part of the Florida Aquifer. 101 Million gallons of fresh water flows from the spring daily. The water is a continual 72 degrees providing a winter migration destination for Manatees. The Manatees have left for the season but many species of fish and turtles can be spotted in the crystal clear water. Getting into Silver Glen Springs, another of Florida’s natural springs was quite a challenge as the approach was very shallow. Once in, however, we found we were not alone. The St. Johns River is truly Florida at its best. We have seen numerous Eagles; one swooped down in front us, snatching a fish right out of the water!In addition, we have seen many wading birds, an Owl and numerous Osprey.It has been fun to spot alligators laying on a log or swimming stealthily through the water. The St. Johns River has truly been a highlight of our trip along America’s Great Loop. As we prepared to depart this beautiful river the winds increased dramatically. We changed our plans and proceeded up the Ortega River where we went through the draw of what our guide books say is the most opened bridge in the state of Florida. We are currently in a beautiful, sheltered marina, Ortega Landing Marina where we will remain until the winds subside. We plan to continue our trip tomorrow, back onto the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway and then on to Georgia.